News

I surfed at the OB Jetty a few days ago, which is a killer wave that peels right quite consistently.  Of course any good wave in a crowded city is going to be… CROWDED!  Well this wave has more than crowds, it has a group of guys from 30-60 years old who are super insecure about themselves and to cover up for this insecurity they assert their superiority by ganging up on anyone who tries to surf their waves.

I’ve been out at the Jetty at times and its been pretty friendly, but when its good, typically the old angry guys come out with wannabe younger followers trailing nearby like ducklings in tow.

This day was really crowded, and I took off on a wave that no one was on and went right.  The wave closed out and ejected me and I heard a faint voice in the background.  When I popped my head up there was one of these older anger guys, about 20 yards away barking something at me.  There was no way the guy was even close to me since the wave closed out, but I approached him and said: “If I was in your way I’m sorry.” But he didn’t let it go, he told me to go surf somewhere else and bla bla bla, to which I said: “The waves are for sharing.”  Of course he had no ground to stand on so he paddled away, grumbling to himself.

A younger duckling about 30 years old, who never even saw the incident, was so desperate for attention and the approval of his piers that he grabbed my leash like a 15 year old child, while I’m paddling.  He then proceeds to start talking trash. I don’t even know what he said.  Before he could even get it out, I firmly told him to “Let It Go” which I had to do a couple times.   Again he couldn’t let it go and started talking trash to which I again (a little more firm this time with an almost growling tone) told him to “Let it Go.”  And guess what?

Yes.. the lions roar usually silences the cowardly and this was no exception.  If this guy had any ground to stand on he’d have challenged me to more conflict, but he didn’t, he was a deeply insecure child desperately trying to get attention and look “Cool” in eyes of his piers.  After the 3rd “Let it Go” he just shut up from that point on.

First lesson?

Sometimes dialogue will NOT work and a fierce roar must be unleashed.  With a really immature, unevolved and insecure person, this was one of those times.

Second Lesson?

Stand your ground and hold the highest truth above all else.  I could have simply not said anything or gotten out of the water, but I didn’t I stood my ground.

Third Lesson?

Later, after doing some meditation and chanting with compassion, I thought about the life behind such a person.  If you are truly happy in life, you won’t mind sharing waves with strangers, you won’t even mind if someone gets in your way as long as they apologize and don’t put your life in jeopardy.   Clearly these guys were NOT HAPPY!

But…  The Good News Is:

I’m now working on a song called “Let It Go” which was inspired by these events.  I’ll keep you posted on the progress.  Feel free to comment below.

Peace at the OB Jetty!

P.S. one day when I film a surf movie and they use my music I want to create a similar scene but I thought of something really cool and polarizing to say instead of just “let it go.”  Here it is:

Listen, you and I both know you had nothing to do with this, the only reason you’re talking shit is because you’re so desperate for attention that you’d do anything to look cool or gain the approval of your peers, but guess what… Nobody here wants to listen to you talk shit, in fact why don’t we just take a vote… Who here wants to listen to this guy talk shit? (of the 30 surfers out nobody raises their hand)

And who here thinks the waves are for everyone not just this needy brown noser? (everyone raises their hands).  The people have spoken buddy, so unless you want everyone here to drown your ass so they don’t have to hear your shit talking, shut up, mind your own business and “Let it Go!”

Bam!  hey if you know anyone who is writing a script to a surf movie, tell them to contact me.